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Essaouira, Morocco
Essaouira, Morocco
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OUR JOURNAL IN PICTURES:

Click any picture to see location, day and description

To see our full "journal" from day one click here...

Day 647: Chefchaouen, Morocco Even the bus ride to Chefchaouen is stunning, but it’s nothing compared to the city itself. With its blue painted walls and labyrinth-like layout, we quickly find ourselves in our favorite state: lost. Our hostel room is a humid, yellow dungeon and we hear whispers among the backpackers that someone might be able to get us a bottle of wine (gasp!) for everyone to share in the evening.
Day 643: Tangiers, Morocco Wake up early and take a 7 hour train across the country to arrive at the northern tip. The first thing we do is buy a ‘double down’ sandwich from KFC (they’re hard to find these days!). When we arrive to the hotel they ask us if we’re married as we were sharing a room. We lied and said we were but felt uncomfortable by the question. Luckily our weird feelings were pushed aside when they upgraded our room to a suite! Liking it here already ;)
Day 641: Fez, Morocco After a beautiful traditional breakfast on our rooftop terrace, our second full day here is spent willingly giving in to the labyrinth and letting it take us where it wanted us to go. We ended up at ‘Cafe Barcelona’, a tiny cafe that prides itself on having the best open mic music performances in the city. Three guys played amazing acoustic music as we sipped our coffee. For lunch we ate burgers made out of Camel and wandered the streets some more. We were surprised how many locals approached us to say hi, ask where we’re from and just engage with us. People seem curious and happy to have us in their city. We did run into an uncomfortable situation where we got a bit lost in the inner maze of the city. A local saw us looking confused and offered to ‘help us’ but when we said no he kept following us persisting. As we turned a corner we realized we were at a dead end and had no way of escaping him if things turned sour, so we kept politely saying no while searching for an escape but continued to hit dead ends at every turn. There was a momentary sense of panic as his friends came over and also offered to ‘help us’ as they began surrounding us. We essentially broke out into a full sprint to get away from them, they jogged after us a bit but finally gave up. The experience gave us a much needed lesson on being at least a little prepared when entering the labyrinth of the streets.
Day 640: Fez, Morocco Walking along the streets of this city is a total transportation for all the senses. There are no cars, no stoplights or really any modern infrastructure at all. Honking car horns are replaced with the sound of wooden cart wheels on cobblestones, businessmen in suites replaced by berbers in traditional djellabas, butchers grilling fresh meat for sandwiches sold for $0.50 each in place of McDonalds. It’s a whole other world entirely, something you just can’t imagine without seeing firsthand. Fez is a labyrinth of small streets, almost impossible to navigate even with our offline map apps. Our first full day here is spent giving in to the labyrinth of streets and letting it take us where it wanted us to go.
Day 639: Fez, Morocco After a dramatic situation with Ryanair that literally almost had us in tears, we finally land in Fez. Our first impression of Morocco is soured by nearly getting trapped in a scam. Our taxi driver picked up a ‘friend’ that offered to guide us to our hotel. After arriving he demanded ‘payment’ despite us telling him we didn’t want/ need his help. So when we refused, a few of his friends came out of the shadows surrounding us. Luckily, right on cue as if in a movie, our Airbnb host opened the door and yelled at them to go away. We were a bit shook and our host even told us to look over our shoulder from now on to avoid running into the scammers as they may hound us a bit for payment...
Day 637: Milan, Italy En route to Morocco we decided to spend a couple days in Milan. Started the day right, eating cannoli with creme pastry and walking around the ubiquitous Duomo. Our favorite activity is just watching people go about their life. We walk to a local area recommended by our host and are happy to find absolutely zero tourists. There’s a trend in this area where bars will serve you a full on buffet of food if you buy literally any drink off the menu. We bought small cocktails and gobbled up amazing Italian tapas by the plateful. The quality was surprisingly good for what you’d expect, and was a pleasant surprise among the sea of overpriced tourist pizza shops. Milan’s small corners are what really make it shine as a city.
Day 635: Java, Indonesia After 4 days in Malang we’re sad to say goodbye. I took one final walk down my favorite street filled with smiling locals and laughing kids. I wave to a little girl with her grandma, take a few pictures and say goodbye. If I remember one thing about Java, it’ll be the smiles. A few hours later we’re on a flight back to the West, en route to Morocco. I know in the back of my mind that our days of living on the road are coming to an end soon, so I embrace and soak every small detail of transit days like this. I revel in my mango ginger candies bought from a small market just the other day and the home made tempeh crackers I stored in my backpack. I know these fine details will be what I look back on years from now.
Day 634: Java, Indonesia Today was the day we met Mount Bromo. As one of the most active volcanos in Asia, I was actually a little nervous going into this. A few hours in an uncomfortable jeep and we’re suddenly in the mountains of Java. The roads are…not so much roads at all. More like boulders and holes pretending to be a road. Our driver seemed to know what to do but there were many points I felt like my head was about to fall off. But the second Bromo came into view, my aching neck vanished. It has such an interesting look and feeling to it. Volcanic ash covers the entire landscape creating an otherworldly feel I’d never experienced before. We hike our way over to the base and begin the climb. Upon reaching the top, I was instantly overwhelmed. The sound of it surprised me, a low roar like a plane flying overhead at all times. The smell of rotting eggs and gunpowder tells your brain to turn around; run. But naturally we walk along the precarious edge for about an hour, dangling our feet over the plumes of white smoke and playing with the lava stone. It made me feel very human to witness the raw energy of a volcano up close for so long. Our tour guide was incredibly friendly and we recommend you use Helios Transport if you ever end up wanting to meet Bromo yourself!
Day 633: Java, Indonesia After a 12 hour train through beautiful landscapes we end up in Malang. It’s a bit more modernized than Yogyakarta which is a good and bad thing. Good in that we can finally find a cafe serving Luwak coffee, bad in that there are no sidewalks and a constant menacing stream of traffic. Just walking to the grocery market is an effort in survival. But we keep waking, and find a local area nearby. It’s stunning with homemade houses and a true community feeling. People poke their heads out their windows to wave at us, kids excitedly call for their friends when they see us, pointing and freaking out. It feels awkward at first but you get used to it and just wave back smiling. I end up loving it. The owner of a restaurant we’re eating at comes out and talks to us. He plays a song for us in bells. On the walk home we get caught in pouring rain, we run into the nearest open shop and the owner personally drives us back to our hotel with her kids. As they’re dropping us off the kids take selfies with us. It’s a damn beautiful country with the kindest people I’ve ever seen.
Day 630: Java, Indonesia After a couple days of relaxing we get down to business: time to climb some volcanos. Mt. Merapi was famous for being the most active volcano in indonesia, and at 3000m one of the largest as well. We were excited but reality proved to be less interesting than expected. The tour was decidedly terrible in so many ways that it’s almost humorous. When we get there we’re carted around in a jeep down some of the worst roads you could imagine. Your first stop is a makeshift ’museum’ from previous eruptions which is probably the coolest part of the whole tour. Some melted TV’s and cutlery. After they take you to a large rock that, I kid you not, is supposed to look like a face. So we’re standing next to this normal rock getting our picture taken wondering how we’ll even have time to climb the volcano with only 20 minutes left on the tour. Finally we get to the volcano and we’re dropped off at an observation point to ‘look’ at the volcano (can’t even climb it). Here’s the kicker, it was slightly cloudy that day so we couldn’t even see the volcano at all. Basically we paid $30 to look at a rock and some clouds. A bad start but we still have yet to see Mt. Bromo and we’re holding out excitement for it.
Day 628: Java, Indonesia Yogyakarta is an anomaly in that it’s still technically it’s own country run by a still-active sultan. We checked out the Sultan’s palace today and it’s a wonder. They had live dance performances, huge archways and a truly regal feeling. Afterwards we just walked around and it was beautiful. Stopped at a local restaurant where one woman cooks everything herself. The traditional food here is Tempeh, which I used to have in the USA but it’s so much better here. They mix it with molasses giving it a unique consistency and flavor that I’ve never experienced before. As we’re walking we find a ‘science center’ that I beg Tamara to check out with me. It’s in total disrepair, all exhibits dating back to the 90’s and broken in one way or another. It was really interesting to see how the kids were dealing with the broken exhibits, finding ways around the faults and enjoying it just as much as, if not more than kids back home would enjoy working ones.
Day 626: Java, Indonesia After 4 more days in Bali we were ready to escape the tourists for a bit. We initially planned on seeing more idilic islands off the coast but opted for something less traditional instead. Some googling leads us to the small but thriving city of Yogyakarta. Instantly we’re attracted to the vibe of this city. We’d never been in a place where so many strangers smiled at us as we walked. It seems like everyone here is eager to stop and chat, a sense of calm and safety settles in. Our hotel is gorgeous, decorated to feel like home with a huge pool outside our door, for the insane price of $40 per night. I think I could stay here a while.
Day 622, Bali, Indonesia Decided to follow a blog post’s directions out to an obscure beach far from our hotel. A 40 minute scooter ride down thin winding roads brings us to a completely empty beach in the middle of nothing. Just us, a rotting ship and quiet. I left my headphones at home today, soaked the moment as much as I could instead.
Day 621: Bali, Indonesia Next on our ‘big-list-of-secret-beaches’ was called Green Bowl. It was an adventure just getting there on our scooter, insane roads with massive hills and potholes big enough to flip us over if we hit one. Balinese drivers seem to enjoy giving you near death experiences as they swerve past at insane speeds. It’s a stressful 40 minute ride but the promise of a remote paradise makes it worth it. When we get there we’re in shock. Only 5 other people there on one of the most beautiful beaches we’ve ever seen (and trust me we’ve seen a lot). Crystal blue water at the perfect temperature, soft waves and massive cliffs surrounding us forming a ‘bowl’ effect befitting it’s name. After hours of playing in the water and soaking sun we go on a hike. After wading through water to a small beach in the distance, I just keep walking for an hour or so. Soon I’m totally alone, on a beach of my own. I lay there and think about how this memory will be the place I go to during any hard times in the future. Day 623: Bali, Indonesia Going down the list we decide to take on the most secret beach of all. Pantai Nyang-Nyang is so off the grid that you have to walk down a huge mountain to find it. There’s hardly a path so we’re hobbling slowly over roots and low branches for what feels like hours. Finally at the bottom we’re face to face with a huge pack of bulls. It’s scary at first but we just keep walking slowly and they don’t seem to be bothered. Then we’re on the sand, completely alone on a huge stretch of ocean. There’s an old ship wreck that we explore and play on for a bit. The beach goes on as far as we can see, endless sand and mountains in the distance. It feels like a dream, like something our minds created. The best part was the isolation, there’s a feeling you get when you have something like this to yourself that’s indescribable. Day 627: Java, Indonesia After a heartfelt goodbye to our Balinese home we had to move on to Yogyakarta, Java. Enticed by the promise of volcanos and kind locals. we felt it was a more memorable choice than continuing down the tourist path of Kuta/ Lombok. Not to mention that we were able to find a boutique 4
Day 619: Bali, Indonesia After a few days of Canggu we felt it was time to move on, a google search directed us to Uluwatu further south. Famous for being the subject of hundreds of surf movies, this was the ‘hidden beach’ area we’d been looking for. We do some research and compile a list of unknown beaches to explore throughout the week. 
When we get to our new surf hotel, we barely set our bags down before running off on our new terrible motor scooter down winding roads through a maze of jungle trees. We stop at an old abandoned stairway with 300+ steps down a cliff to a remote beach. There are about 20 other people there but all locals with surf boards. There’s a small cafe run by a nice older woman telling us she has beds available cheaper than what we have now. We kick ourselves for having a booking already, missing an opportunity to live on a remote beach like this. Maybe next time, in 20 years.
Day 616: Bali, Indonesia Life is good out here in Canggu. It’s a picturesque surf city with more relaxed vibes than I know what to do with. Our days are spent watching local TV in our hotel, laying by the rooftop pool with cheap beers and riding our terrible scooter as far as it can go in random directions just soaking it all in. Today was a race against the clouds as another massive tropical storm came in during one of our bike rides. The kind of storm that scares you on some primal level as the sun fades replaced with a gray haze. We rushed home just before the downfall and watched it from the roof. At night we biked to a pig roast with a view of endless rice fields. Sunset, avocado shake, local chocolate, crickets.
Day 614: Bali, Indonesia Today is a day I’ll look back on forever. A day that humbled me to the powers of nature and my role within it. I had decided I wanted to try surfing but that I wanted to familiarize myself with the ocean first. As I began wading out into the waves I felt something was off. I’m no stranger to oceans mind you, but this one felt angry, aggressive. I brushed off the feeling, confident in my swimming abilities I continued out further pushing through wave after wave and laughing along the way. But then, in an instant, something changed and I felt a sour drop in my stomach as I realized I was being pulled further out against my will. I begin swimming as hard as I could back to shore but after each session I look up to see the sand further away than before. I experience true fear for the first time as each wave fights against my weary muscles straining to keep my head above water. My last inch of hope fades as I realize that not only do I not have enough energy to make it back to shore, but I barely have enough to stay above water for much longer. I feel a scream for help unconsciously leave my mouth, a bit muted from the unfamiliarity of it all. Another follows, louder this time. I can hardly see the sand anymore and I’m convinced no one could hear me this far out. A feeling of claustrophobia takes over; a realization that I have no force here, no amount of my personal will could fight the endless water. It was the first time in my life that I felt a true loss of control. I kept screaming. Minutes pass and I try to float above the water to save energy but the waves are too aggressive. My energy’s running thin and I know I have only minutes left in me. Just as I begin to feel a cramp start in my ribs I hear a voice. It’s the biggest relief of my life to see two surfers paddling towards me. They float me on their boards back to shore where Tamara has her hands over mouth, crying. I lay down panting and staring blankly at the sky, in a state of surreal shock and denial. My brain unable to process the fact that seconds ago I was moments from death. Someone hands me a water bottle, and life goes on.
Day 613: Bali, Indonesia After one last night of yoga in Ubud we hop an Uber to the close by city of Canggu. Apparently Uber is super illegal in Bali with some drivers getting beaten by local pissed off taxi owners. A little unsettling but the drive goes well and we end up at an amazing surf hotel by the ocean. It’s colorful, huge and modern giving us a true sense of vacation. We rent another crappy motorbike and ride across narrow rocky roads to the beach. It’s almost night so we just lay around a bit, listen to audiobooks and soak whatever sun is left. Life is slow out here, people seem happy and free spirited. Many travelers with surf boards, small shops with local clothes, all vegan restaurants and cafes. Add it to the list of cities I could retire to.
Day 611: Bali, Indonesia When in Bali you have to get into Yoga, or so I’ve been told. So we did our first session in an open air venue. It was harder than I thought, leaving me an exhausted mess after just 50 minutes, but damn did it feel good. Naturally Tamara was effortless at it, reminding me why I’ll need to get back into cardio when we eventually stop traveling. After having enough public embarrassment for one day we went to check out the monkey forest. I made friends with a few of the little guys and hung out watching their patterns. It felt like a true jungle having the monkeys around among the massive trees and vines, all I could think about was how much I wanted to go camping.
Day 609: Bali, Indonesia The owners of our hotel spontaneously invited us to join them for a traditional Balinese religious ceremony and of course we couldn’t say no. After a couple hours of youtube videos we were finally able to figure out how to properly wrap a turban and walked down the street to a huge outdoor ‘church’ with hundreds of locals. The building was split into two areas, one with music and stage performances and one for meditative prayer, shadow puppets and chanting. We start off watching a performance where a large guy in a monster mask dances to haunting yet beautiful music. It was transfixing and hard to leave but we wanted to pray with the others in the next room. Watching the massive crowd pray was even more interesting. We loved the music and the long bearded leader’s tradition of tossing water and flowers as he chants. It was magical being a part of this, we were the only non-locals present making us feel accepted and welcomed by the community.

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